Monthly Archives: October 2019

Day 21: The last day

This is the post I like writing least.  The adventures are over and the only thing left to do is pack up and spend an entire day traveling.  Not very exciting but necessary nevertheless.

We actually had to set and alarm today – oh, the horror! – in order to make sure we got to Edinburgh airport on time.  We are always warned about needing extra time because Frank can’t check in on line because the websites and apps don’t know how to deal with his green card.  So we hit the road early and had the rental car back and were in the terminal by 8:30 for a 10:55 flight.  And then we waited.  First the queue to check in and get rid of the big bags.  We managed to be under the 22kg limit for both bags – Frank’s was 20.2 and mine 20.9 – even with all the stuff we were bringing home.  Then we queued for security.  TSA precheck doesn’t mean anything in foreign airports so no shortcuts there. Then we waited to board.  This time it was a real Delta flight so even though it was just a 757, we had a good experience:  always too little leg room but the seats were comfy, the wine was free, and there was only 6 hours and 45 minutes to kill before landing in JFK. This means I got through Rocketman and Toy Story 4 as well as finishing my book.

We figured landing in JFK had to be better than Newark but maybe not by much.  The queues in the immigration hall were unbelievable:

Travel tip #38: The $100 fee for Global entry is worth it just to avoid the hour long wait in JFK once.  We were out in 10 minutes but the regular queues had 45-60 minute waits!

Then we claimed the bags, rechecked them, went back through security and got to wait for our flight to Rochester.  Good thing; we got upgraded to comfort plus which meant more leg room for the whole 45 minutes we would be in the air.  Bad thing:  a one hour delay while they fixed something with the bathroom.  We finally arrived just after 6pm (or 11pm Scotland time) where we were met by wonderful friends who loaded all our crap in the car, took us to meet other friends for dinner and then safely deposited us and our belongings back at the house in time for us to be sound asleep by 9:30pm

IMG_5493And now the great adventure is over for this year.  It was wonderful and different, exhilarating and exhausting.  It’s the longest trip we’ve taken in ages and I confess that the thing that makes coming home even nicer is seeing Buddy’s wagging tail again.  Never thought I’d miss a dog so much.  Until next time!

Day 20: Quests and quaffs

Today would be the last day for seeing folk and finding the few items we were still trying to acquire before heading home tomorrow.  The sun shone for about 5 minutes when we awoke and then it proceeded to rain steadily for the next 16 hours.  Mother Nature was doing her best to make sure we were ready to go home.

We had a few things that we’d yet to find to bring home including a small gift for a friend that I shan’t mention here just in case – don’t want to spoil the surprise! – and the hunt involved charity shops and specialty stores. It’s quite a common item but not necessarily easy to purchase.  We started by visiting all the charity shops in Stirling: British Heart Foundation, Marie Curie, PDSA, Stratcarron Hospice, etc. No luck. So we tried switching to the other item on our list:  a new duvet cover.  We are still fans of the duvet with a cover and no top sheet.  Which means the covers get washed frequently and need to be replaced fairly frequently.  These still aren’t that common in the US and the only place we have ever had any luck is IKEA.  But now that the closest IKEA is in Canada, we are quite keen to bring one home from this trip.

But not just any duvet cover – those we can order on line. We were on the hunt for one that matched the odd shade of blue in our bedroom.  In fact, we had brought a paint stick with the paint color on it so that we could compare it to the ones in the shop.  We hit all the department stores still left in the town but again, no luck. So into the Bluebell Tearoom for a cuppa and a GTF scone with jam (yum!) and then to continue the visiting.  Off to see mum for the last time this trip.  She was in fine spirits and had us laughing out loud when a news item about the US president came on the telly and she burst out with “See him?  How has no one shot him yet?”

Then it was off to see the missing brother who had just got back from his own holiday the night before.

Travel tip #37:  When you plan a trip to visit folk, make sure they are going to be home.

We hadn’t shared the dates of our trip with anyone until just a few weeks before we left which was after they had booked a trip to Portugal.  Luckily we managed to have one day that overlapped so we popped round for a cup of tea and to make plans for getting together for our last night.  Then it was off to the Torbrex Inn for some lunch.  I was thrilled to see that they had GF steak pie on the menu – which I figured out later wasn’t exactly gluten free.  Ugh.

Fully fueled, we continued our quest, heading into Alloa to check the charity shops there.  And success!  In the window of the Stratcarron Hospice shop there was the coveted item.  We headed back into town via the retail park where a stop at Harry Corey netted a smashing duvet cover with the right shade of blue in it.  (And only 12 pounds!) Then back to the flat to pack before dinner at the Allan Park Hotel.

This trip has been unusual in many ways.  We haven’t done many of the typical things that we traditionally do when we visit and tonight’s dinner was another departure.  Instead of a carry out and a heavy drinking session with large numbers of family at the house in Bannockburn, it was just the 4 of us having a lovely meal and behaving relatively like adults.  Of course we had a wee drink before we left and then a few drinks with dinner then we did get a taxi back to the house for a few more drinks before yet another taxi took us back to the flat.  So it wasn’t *too* far off the usual.

Dubious data for the day:
10,575 steps and 4 floors
Charity shops visited: 10
Types of drinks consumed: 5
Number of people ordering highland chicken at dinner (stuffed with haggis): 3 (it’s not GF – oh, darn.)

Day 19: Third time lucky

Another morning with sunshine – and rain because it’s Scotland.  Today’s plan  was to finally tackle the elusive Glengoyne distillery!  We have tried to make a tour there in the past (in 2015 and again in 2016) but for various reasons have never made it past the shop.  Well today we were going to fix that!  We headed out bright and early and made it there just in time for the 11am tour.  And while we do know how whisky is made so the tour wasn’t strictly necessary, we are now starting to pay more attention to some of the details:  who uses peat, who has steel versus wood washbacks, who malts their own barley, etc. So we did really enjoy the tour – and the whisky.  We started with their 12 year old and ended with a dram of the 18 year old.  And Frank got none of mine. Yup, I drank all my own whisky for a change which tells you what it is like – light and somewhat sweet with no smoke.  The last distillery we visited where I enjoyed the dram was Dalwhinnie which is lighter still than that Glengoyne.

Then is was lunchtime so back to the Old Mill Inn in Killern with their lovely tasting board and homemade soup that scuppered our first visit.  The food was just as good as we remembered and a group from the distillery tour also turned up there for lunch!

IMG_0577Then it was back to visiting. We picked up Frank’s niece and went to visit his mum. She was much brighter and cheerier today but her legs were bothering her so we didn’t stay too long.  We did our regular run into Callandar and stopped for tea and cakes.  The River Teith was bursting it’s banks and water was slowly creeping into the carpark where we stopped so we didn’t stay too long.

We stopped at the City Walls for dinner – one of the niece’s favorites – and then it was out to Alva for more visiting.  We hadn’t yet seen another nieces new house so we popped round there for a cup of tea and more blethering before heading back to the flat to start contemplating packing.

Dubious data for today: 5,407 steps and 5 floors (it was a small distillery)
Number of stories about how fast Frank used to drive these wee roads back in the day: 27
Number of rainbows spotted: 4

Day 18: Meetings and greetings

Bright sunshine greeted us when we eventually awoke far later than we had planned.  (I haven’t had much luck sleeping past 7 or 7:30 regardless of what time I go to bed and today we slept until 8:30!) A quick bacon and egg roll – induction hob sussed! – and we were off to visit mum. We caught her in the middle of her breakfast so we went into Bridge of Allan for a coffee and came back for a lovely visit before moving on to the main event of the day:  a trip to Edinburgh.

The trip itself was not particularly unusual as we often go to Edinburgh for the day when we visit but the reason for today’s trip was a bit different as I was going to do a bit of work. I have the privilege of being the president of an international data organization (IASSIST) and the vice president works at the University of Edinburgh.  So when we realized that our monthly administrative committee call would be while I was in Scotland, we arranged for me to go to her office and we could participate together.  While this does techniulaly count as working while on vacation, I don’t consider it really work because I have been part of this organization for decades and have met some of my now dearest friends through it.  And we arranged to meet with several of them today.

So on to the 11:42 train to Edinburgh.

Travel tip #35: take public transport whenever parking or alcohol are likely to make things messy.

IMG_5031We arrived at Edinburgh Waverly station just before 12:30 and wandered through town to get to Bennet’s Bar – a lovely old pub where we were to have our first meeting: a pint with a friend and former IASSIST president.  We sat and nattered through a pint there before heading across the street to  the Blackbird for lunch.  I had the most interesting thing:  a GF waffle topped with avocado, feta cheese, pepper jelly and pumpkin seeds.  Unusual and delicious.

Next stop:  the university building where I would take my call.  Frank toddled off to continue his search for a model Alfa Romeo while I was otherwise occupied.  (Still no luck!) Despite the inevitable minor technology glitches (camera works but audio doesn’t, then vice versa, then it gets sorted), we managed the meeting very well, thanks mostly to a very able and organized secretary.

Business complete, it was time for the next stop which wEGYNC-9W4AEI8gPas drinks at Sandy Bell’s with a friend and former treasurer of IASSIST (sense a theme here?).  We chatted about digital preservation, world politics, and raising teenagers before it was time for him to go home to the family and us to go to our final “meeting”.  Moving on to the OX184 pub in the Cowgate, we met with the vice president and her husband for drinks and more social discussions.  And thusly well watered, it was time to find food.  We said our goodbyes and went off in search of a pub that served something I could eat.

Travel tip #36: Try to eat before you drink.  Or at least before you have the 5th pint of cider.  Your stomach will thank you.

We managed to find the Albanach on the Royal Mile that could do a gammon steak with egg and pineapple plus peas and a jacket potato.  Just what the doctor ordered!  Frank got a haggis and neeps pie which suited him fine as well.  And the timing couldn’t have been better:  10 minutes after we ordered, they stopped taking food orders.  Phew.  We finished a lovely meal (but not all of our pints unfortunately.  No judging!) and made the 9:33 train back to Stirling.

Dubious data for today:
14,945 steps and 32 floors (Edinburgh is a multidimensional city) including 118 steps up the New Steps from Market street to St. Giles street
Number of pubs visited: 5
Number of pints consumed by all pub participants: 21

Day 17: The big day

Today (October 7) is the reason for the entire trip: our 30th wedding anniversary.  Apparently this is the Pearl anniversary not that we’ve ever minded such things. We originally thought it would be a great opportunity for us to have a big celebration with all the family and friends who couldn’t be there on the actual day but that didn’t work out.  The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men gang aft a-gley as Robbie Burns once penned.

No surprise that the day is grey and misty.  We had our breakfast and started the visiting in earnest.  Off to the care home for tea with mum.  She wasn’t doing particularly well and words seemed difficult for her so we didn’t stay long.  Next stop: Auntie Jean and Uncle Jimmy who have also aged since the last time we saw them and are now fully and admittedly in the ranks of “old people”.  Jimmy rarely drives now, which is probably a good thing given that he’s near enough to 90. And Jean says she doesn’t mind since the only place she wasnts to go in the car is the supermarket.  We spent an hour or so catching up on family stuff (with a short time out for me to “fix YouTube” on Jean’s ipad) and then we were on our own for a bit.

We had a lovely bar lunch at the Westerton Arms as we have done so many times before and then proceeded to mark the passage of time in our surroundings.  The hotel where we had our engagement party is currently being remodeled for offices, the University of Stirling (where I was studying when we met) is also under construction and nearly unrecognizable given my 30+ year old memories. We wandered through the center of Stirling noting changes old and new.  When did every second shop become an estate agent’s office?  How many houses can they possibly be selling?

Travel tip #33:  you can’t go back.  You can go again but nothing stays the same.  We took some comfort that we aren’t the only nostalgic travelers as we noted a couple in Vernazza who where wandering the town looking for a restaurant they had visited 20 years before.

We spent the evening with the best man and his wife who were two of the only 4 people who came from Scotland for the wedding.  We had drinks at our wee holiday flat before walking into town for a lovely meal at Brea instead of our usually “box of curry” meal and drinking session at their house. It is wonderful to have such long standing friendships even though we are generally 3000 miles apart at any one time.

Travel tip #34: take joy where you find it.  Life is short.

And so we marked three decades of marriage.  And it was just perfect.

Dubious data for today:
12,727 with apparently no floors?
Number of estate agents in the high street: 10
Number of places that are still where the were 30 years ago: a handful
Number of things we would have done differently over the decades: 0

Day 16: Fending for ourselves

And today begins the transition from vacation to visiting.  For two weeks we were tourists, with the majority of that time spent surrounded by people whose job it was to make us happy.  Then we had this lovely transition weekend where technically we were visiting family but they consistently go out of their way to make us feel special: cooking fantastic meals, pouring copious amounts of tasty beverages, and generally providing incredible camaraderie.  We still feel like we are on vacation when we visit.  And all that was to change.

The rain from the night before had persisted and we awoke to the steady thrum of persistent showers.  We managed to have breakfast while it was still considered morning and hashed through a few more weighty topics such as road rage, the second amendment and international comparisons of sports fans. But then we had to pack up and move on to visiting Frank’s family.  We took the obligatory good-bye photo in the front garden – not hungover for a change! – and headed north east.

We headed to Stirling  to check into our AirBnB.  We are staying at Limegrove Cottage, a flat we’ve stayed in before, which is really more than we need with 2 bedrooms and 2 baths but it’s comfy and well located with parking and a large utility room where we can get all the cruise clothes washed so we don’t have to wander around Scotland smelling like sunscreen! We arrived a bit too early so it was off to the youngest Cannon brother’s house to say hello, catch up on all the happenings, make some plans for the week, and get some information on the condition of Frank’s mom.  Then it was off to the care home for a quick visit to mom to let her know we’ve arrived and that we’ll be by to spend some time with her tomorrow.

And now to really be a local:  stop by the flat to drop off the bags, off to Sainsbury’s to pick up essentials for breakfast (bacon, eggs, brown loaf, yogurt, muesli, etc) as well as for evenings (wine, beer, and cider). 

Travel tip #31: always have a carrier bag or two in your case. They come in handy for all kinds of things and if you don’t have one with you when you leave hone, you’ll probably have one when you return. But that does make you look cool when you go to Wegmans with foreign grocery bags.

And finally, we really needed to eat a meal.  Tea and biscuits with the family helped to tide us over but we hadn’t had anything proper since the bacon and egg roll just before noon.  And there was no one around who was charged with or cared enough to take care of that for us! So we were on our own. Yes, we could have bought ingredients at the store to cook something or eaten out at a restaurant but why when there is an excellent chippy nearby.  So off to Paulino’s on the Glasgow road for a fish and a chicken supper, washed down with beer, and enjoyed it while trying to find something to watch on the telly.

Travel tip #32: don’t expect television in a foreign country to be any better than what you get at home. We still had a choice of dozens of channels of crap – some of it was American crap.

Dubious data for the day:
5758 steps and 4 floors
Miles driven: approximately 80 (which is why the step count is so low)
Loads of washing completed so far: 2
Different beers and ciders purchased: 9

Day 15: Playing natives

The day started characteristically grey but dry.  We actually saw the morning because the bevy last night was actually pretty tame and there were none of the epic hangovers of years past.  Breakfast was light – fruit smoothies, coffee, and toast – because today’s adventure would be centered around food.  We were headed into Glasgow for the Big Feed – an indoor food truck/drinking/music event.

Hopping on the 11am train, we found ourselves in the center of Glasgow well before noon which was a little early for the Big Feed.  So we decided to get some culture and hopped on the subway to the Kelvingrove Gallery and Museum where we perused several galleries of art including the famous Christ of Saint John of the Cross painting by Salvador Dali.  There were also French and Dutch works and an entire gallery of Scotland’s identity explored through art with depictions of Robert the Bruce, Robbie Burns, and lots of exhibits on tartan.  There was even an organ recital while we were there so it was a well rounded cultural experience.  And it left us hungry.

Travel tip #31: support the local museums.  Kelvingrove charges no admission but does take donations so we decided that the pockets full of change that we had – some of which were pound coins – would be better used by them than by us.

Then back to the subway and out to Govan, exiting the station at Ibrox, famous home of the Glasgow Rangers football team which none of us support.  We wandered through some warehouses before finding the one that had been kitted up for the event.  A dozen street food vendors lined the walls of the warehouse with tables in the middle.  There was a full bar, a small music stage, a doggie buffet for the pets and face painting and balloon animals for the kids.  It’s actually a fabulous idea and a great way to spend a cool Saturday afternoon. We indulged in sweet potato curry, many plates of chips with various sauces and a variety of dishes involving duck.  And a few pints to wash it down.  For several hours we chatted and ate and listened to the solo female guitarist play an incredible range of music from Johnny Cash to Walk the Moon.

Thus suitably overfed and well watered, we wandered back through town for more adventures.  Instead of availing ourselves of the subway again, we walked back past the Kelvingrove and headed to Ashton Lane, a stupidly adorable cobbled street on the west side with bars and restaurants.  We enjoyed a sojourn at a fancy gin bar where we were occasionally entertained by silliness occurring in the street outside. Then we moved on again, back to the center of town where apparently it was time to eat again.  We opted for mezze at a middle eastern restaurant thinking that the smaller plates would mean that we wouldn’t over eat.  Well that plan went far asunder as there was way too much food (and more drink) and then it was time to shuffle back through the rain to the train for home.

You know you are getting old when you are leaving Glasgow at the time that most young people were just arriving for their Saturday night out.  You also know you are getting old when you are utterly appalled at their choice of attire!  There were gaggles of young women emerging from the train station, tottering on spikey heels in strappy dresses that barely covered their privates.  And they were heading out into the cold Scottish rain where I know their artfully applied (pounds of) face makeup would not survive and they would shiver and be miserable.

Travel tip #32: dress for the weather, not for the fashion. (Credit: my auntie Alice)

And now my transition to being my mother is complete.  Just bring me a cup of tea and come visit on Sundays.

Once safely and warmly ensconced back at the homestead, we consumed a little more wine while continuing to explore topics of serious national interest: buskers and other street performers, gender versus sex, cigarette vs marijuana, snus and premier league football, among others.

Dubious data for today:
16,337 steps and 15 floors.
Calories consumed: 1000000000
Train/subway rides: 5
Nuns: 0

Day 14: Train, plane, and automobile

Today was to be the ultimate transit day: the entire goal was to get from Italy to Scotland with no mishaps. We awoke to a cloudless sky – a bit mocking given that it was our last day – spent a few minutes rearranging the suitcases (again!) and then headed down for the hotel breakfast.

I always find breakfasts in foreign countries to be the most entertaining meal because it’s where cultural differences seem to be most apparent to me. For example, we saw many cafes in Rome advertising “American breakfasts” which had things that the Romans obviously thought that Americans eat but didn’t quite hit the mark. Like würstel – a sort of hot dog or Vienna sausage. It is probably trying to approximate link sausages that we do eat for breakfast but kinda misses the mark. Especially when advertised as würstel which most Americans wouldn’t recognize.

Travel tip #29:  Go with the flow for breakfast.  Even if it means eating what you think of as salad both other see as a fine way to start the day.

So our hotel had würstel as well as the obligatory eggs, cold meats and cheeses, fruit and yogurt, and cereals that are pretty standard fare for European hotel breakfasts. Along with cucumbers and tomatoes which aren’t things that I think of as breakfast items. Two things did jump out at me: they had ingredient lists posted for EVERYTHING. The pastries, the eggs, the yogurt, the fruit. Everything. It was mostly in Italian with a few bad translations sprinkled throughout but it was good enough for me to make the relevant choices. Second, one of the hot dishes was Cantonese rice. Hmmmm. It appears that our hotel gets enough Chinese visitors that they added things to the breakfast buffet to accommodate them. I can’t say if this is something that Chinese people eat at home or if this, like the würstel is a close approximation of a local dish, but it was interesting just the same. (And pretty tasty!)

Once we were suitable fueled, it was time to head to the train station. We were taking the 9:50 Leonardo Express to Rome’s Flumicino airport where we would catch our budget flight to Glasgow. Though we usually fly the dreaded Ryan Air for such hops, this time we were trying Jet2. I generally prefer the more standard commercial airlines they didn’t offer any nonstop flight and it didn’t make sense to change planes in Paris or Amsterdam for a 3 hour flight.

So we boarded the express train to the airport and found our way to the check in desk. FCO is one of the busiest airports in Europe and it was pretty chaotic but we got the bags dropped off (including one that we were going to carry on but they checked for free making it so much easier to get around the crowded terminal.) We were just heading to security when the Polizia started clearing the terminal for a security issue – a suspicious bag I think – and we just made it through the chaos to the security lines before we had to be herded outside.

And then it was standard “hurry up and wait” airport stuff before boarding and taking off on time. The airline reminded me a little of Southwest albeit a bit stripped down: plane was a 737-700 (and we had an empty seat next to us – Score!) where the seats didn’t recline, there was no entertainment system, and everything had to be purchased. But it was clean and efficient and it landed on time and the bags were with us so score all around.

Travel tip #30: manage your expectations about airline travel.  In fact, have very low expectations and then you may be surprised.  We had high expectations about our Alitalia flight and were disappointed.  We had no expectations of Jet2 and were pleasantly surprised.

We headed out of Glasgow airport into the cloudy grey day to pick out the rental car and head west to visit my family for a few days. If you’ve seen this episode before, you know that there was excellent food enjoyed, much wine consumed, and many world problems analyzed with no suitable solutions found but that doesn’t stop us from trying!

Dubious data for today:
7151 steps and 2 floors (to get to the food hall for something to eat in FCO before boarding).  There’s not much walking when you are shuffling through lines.
Number of nuns: 4
Number of currencies juggled on the plane while preparing to land: 3 because apparently I still have some Icelandic króna from last year.
Number of photos taken: None of interest. Just pictures of the rental car scratches because Frank refuses to be held responsible for someone else’s bad driving.

Day 13: Not the luckiest day

And so all good things must come to an end. We docked at around 6am and were awake not long after that but still before dawn. We didn’t *have* to be up for a while longer but sleep eluded us. So we got up and showered and tested our projected packing needs. We assumed that everything we had left out would fit into our carry on bags. We were almost right.

Then down to breakfast where I assumed that we would have the opportunity to say good bye to the wait staff who had take such good care of us – especially Mary who had taken on the charge of making sure I didn’t get sick on her watch. But none of the usuals were around. Not that the staff who brought our last breakfast weren’t nice; they just weren’t the “regular” staff. {sigh}

We then grabbed our bags and went to hangout in the lounge waiting for our turn to disembark. We had hoped to find the Canadians that we had spent the week running into and drinking with but that also didn’t happen. Then it was time to wait for our prearranged car to pick us up for the trip into Rome. We had arranged for the driver to meet us at 9am assuming that was a reasonable time yet we were off the ship and waiting at the cruise terminal by just after 8 am. He eventually arrived and found us about 8:25 so we were off to Rome which would take about and hour and 20 minutes because we needed to get to the center of town during morning traffic. While in the car, I got a call from the hotel asking where the driver should meet us at the port. Um, what? Apparently, when I had asked for assistance with getting from the port to the city, they had arranged for someone to pick us up. For some reason, I didn’t get the message about that – although they did send an email! – and had booked and paid someone else to pick us up! Seriously? How long has my brain been on vacation?

We got to the hotel in Rome just after 10am and checked in with a thousand apologies for the mix up. The hotel staff was super nice and very concerned about the situation. They had arranged for a driver to go to to port and he incurred gas, tolls, and other costs just for to be no shows. We decided that it would be fair for us to pay his actual costs which made sure that he wasn’t out of pocket and that the hotel saved face for being the ones who arranged the ride for the flakey tourist. Given how mortified I was about MY mistake, I was glad to have the opportunity to make things right.

We were able to get into our room very early (I think the poor girls on the desk felt bad for us at this point!) and head out to wander the city. We had been to Rome a few years earlier (I’m sure you’ve read all about it here) so we didn’t feel the need to do the typical tourist things. We did have a few items on the agenda – specifically searching for a model of an Alfa Romeo, Frank’s new car. We had Googled a few model shops in Rome and decided to use those as destinations for our transition day. We headed to the train station first to buy our tickets to the airport for tomorrow. Then off to the closest model shop… which didn’t exist.

Travel tip #28: Google isn’t always right.

We checked and rechecked the address and the place that Google quite clearly said was a model shop was, in fact, a diamond store. Not the same thing at all. So we retreated to a cafe for cappuccinos to decide what to do next when the wind picked up, the skies darkened, and then the rain came pouring down. Seriously? What next?

Over the next half hour or so, we made our way along broad tree lined streets by the American embassy jumping from sheltered spot to sheltered spot, be it a restaurant doorway or a tree canopy. We were working our way to the Borghese Museum – a destination I had quickly looked up as a possible place to visit that isn’t on most “Top 10 things to do in Rome” lists but would be a perfect destination in the rain. We made it there relatively dry only to find out that you need to buy tickets in advance and they were sold out. Seriously? What next?

Okay, maybe it was time to try the model idea again. There is another model shop in the north west corner of the city, well out of the tourist district, and we had originally crossed it off the list because of the location. It moved back to the top of the list but we were pressed for time: like many Italian businesses, it would be closed from 1- 4 and we would need to seriously move to make it before closing. Which we did amidst occasional sprinkles with some sun breaking through. And we arrived with 15 minutes to spare only to find that they had a VERY small selection of the kind of models we were in search of. Most were plastic kits or other create-it-yourself items. Seriously? What next?

And now we were destination-less. And hungry. So off to lunch. We found a great place by the Piazza Barberini that did gluten free options. This was no tourist place- down in a basement, we were the only non-Italians in the place. We had a fabulous lunch with excellent house wine and great pasta. Frank had wide noodles with a lamb ragout and I had GF spaghetti carbonara. YUM!

Then it was off for more wandering. Everywhere and no where. From the northeast of the city to the south west, we just walked. We headed back to the hotel late in the afternoon as I had a conference call – a president’s work is never done! – then it was time for a real Roman dinner. We found a restaurant around the corner from our hotel that had allergens clearly marked on their menu. We headed there and had an amazing meal: prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella to start, then steak for me and veal saltimbocca for Frank, followed by creme caramel and tiramisu. All of this accompanied by a lovely Montepulciano d’Abbruzo.

And now it is time to rearrange things in the suitcases to complete the transition from vacation to visit. For tomorrow we abandon sunscreen for sweaters and head to Scotland.

Dubious data for today: 28, 242 steps and 21 floors. (Apparently, that’s almost 12 miles. My feet would agree.)
Nuns spotted: 10
Street markets perused: 2 Bottles of red consumed: 2ish

Day 12: Last minute changes on the last day

We awoke today to grey brooding skies that matched the mood of awakening on the last day of the cruise. We docked in Livorno harbor, the main port for Tuscany, where many of our fellow passengers would disembark and skitter off to Pisa or Florence on their organized tours. Since that’s not how we roll, we had reserved a car for the day with the idea of cruising through the Tuscan countryside visiting wineries. That idyllic scene did not contain rain clouds, however, so we spent some time at breakfast recallibrating our plans. We had heard several people mention that they were very excited to visit Cinque Terre – a group of five villages nestled along the coast of Liguria, north of Tuscany. Our weather apps said that the weather might be better there and it was a new place to visit so a new plan was hatched.

After breakfast, we disembarked and found the Avis counter inside the cruise terminal (score oe for Livorno port – very convenient!). Today’s driving pleasure would be in a Fiat Tipo – a substantially larger car than the Fiat 500 we had in Sicily. We took off to the north with clouds over head but the promise of sunshine coming in from the west. About 90 minutes into our drive, we arrived at the Cinque Terre National Park and then the geography got real. Apparenty you don’t get to go see the cute fishing villages nestled into the mountains without actually driving down the mountain! If we thought the drive to Etna was challenging, we were sorely mistaken. This route was just as twisty but hugged the cliff the entire time. Thus we were not only creeping along hairpin turns as we did in Sicily, but there was a sheer drop to the sea on one side of the car for the last one-third of the drive. I confess that I could not have done it but Frank did an amazing job, especially given that the Dutch couple in the Volvo infront of us were having some challenges with their wider car.

Eventually we made it to Vernazza, supposedly the most picturesque of the 5 villages. We parked outside the village – only residents can park closer and there aren’t any cars allowed in the village – and started the walk down to the sea. It started to sprinkle en route but rain never really materialized. It was enough to be tortuous since we were both dying for the toilet but not enough to warrent breaking out the rain jackets. We toured the entire village looking for a public toilet and wound up standing in the unreasonably long line at the train station for the only one in town.

Travel tip #25: scout out the public conveniences before you need them. You may not make the best decisions if your eyeballs are floating.

Suitably relieved, we decided to actually explore a bit. This was another stupidly picturesque place complete with stark church, churning seas, brightly colored albeit fading buildings, all built into the side of a mountaion at the edge of the sea. As we drove down, we terraced vinyards where grapes were growing at a pitch steep enough to make your nose bleed. And so were the buildings here. Stacked on top of each other between land and sea, it was intriguing toI think a) how they got this way, and b) how on earth anyone lives there now. Apparently, tourism is huge and there is a hiking trail that connects the 5 villages. It’s now on my bucket list.

We found a seafront cafe with a reasonable cover charge and ordered lunch.

Travel tip #26: when you are a captive audience, restaurants can charge you just to sit down. we paid 2 euros each for the pleasure of occupiying one of their chairs. {grrr}

Gluten free options were limited but we opted for the seafood risotto and a half liter of house white. Today I was nice enough to share some with Frank since he was not going to drink very much before the drive back up the mountain to get back to civilization. Of course I forgot that seafood would have come straight from the sea that I was sitting next to. The clams and muscles were fine, the calmari was probably frozen but that was okay too. The whole jumbo prawns with heads and everything attached nearly did me in. I managed to slay the sea creatures in the serving bowl and enjoyed the rest of the lunch.

Since the sun had come out during out lunch, we wandered about again taking new pictures of the scenery with clearer skies and brighter lighting. This included walking into a little cove where there were more cairns in one place than I have ever seen in my life. I know it’s a hiker thing and there were lots of hikers in town – more people were carrying hiking poles than were without them – but this was amazing!

Eventually we realized that it was time to head back so the climb back to the car park began. This was followed by the drive along the sometimes frightening road we took down into the village but somehow the rally driver in Frank rose to the challenge. I confess there were times when he was grinning like a madman and I just closed my eyes. But he’s happiest when he’s driving and I’m happiest when I’m not.

Once out of the national park, the toll road back to town was far less than exciting. We returned the rental car and headed back to the ship to begin the dreaded “last night of the holiday”activy: packing. One thing that worked in our favor: the budget airline with the nonstop flight to Glasgow doesn’t fly on Thursdays so we have one night in Rome before flying on Friday. That means that we don’t have to do the “where to pack the liquids” shuffle just yet. Thee decisions are especially challenging on a cruise since your main luggage needs to be outside your cabin before bed. If you want to shower in the morning and have anything like, say, tootpaste available to you, it needs to go in your carry one that stays with you. If you are going straight to the airport, that can be challenging.

Travel tip #27: An extra day in Rome is never a bad thing.

So tomorrow we “have” to stay in Rome before beginning our visit to Scotland. It made our packing much easier so we had lots of time for our last night on the ship: the final visit to the Martini bar, the final dinner in the fancy French restaurant, and the final double Bailey’s nightcap.

Dubious data for today:
12,010 steps and 37 floors. (Not much walking but none of it flat!)
244 kilometers
39 miles to the gallon
47 swear words each on the scary road