Monthly Archives: June 2026

With our full 1 day of experience under our belt, we didn’t rush to get up and out this morning. A light breakfast of fruit and yogurt with toast got us started and the grey skies told us to layer up. The we were off!

The plan today – yes, there was one! – was to visit Honfleur, a dribble fishing village in the mouth of the Seine. About an hour’s drive from Rouen, we took the back roads through the countryside which took a little longer. The skies were overcast but the weather apps promised sun for later.

The town is lovely- we get an old Annapolis vibe for those who get that reference. We stopped at one of the dozens of cafes along the harbor and enjoyed Normandy vide and moule frites – Roquefort for Frank and Camembert for me. Yum!

Then it was off to explore. we meandered through cobbled streets and popped into the shops along the way. There seems to be mostly art galleries, souvenir shops and purveyors of Calvados- the apple brandy that this part of Normandy is famous for. We stumbled into St Catherine’s church – a wooden edifice constructed by shipbuilders which may be my favorite one so far. Another candle lit – St Anne this time, tres apropo! – and we emerged to glorious sunshine.

A walk along the waterfront was in order followed by a climb up Mont Joli, 430 feet up some steep streets for a fantastic view across the Seine to Le Havre as well as over the town itself. Magnifique!

By the time we got back down to town, it was obvious that the tour buses from either Paris or nearby cruise ships had descended on the water front. There were hoards of people everywhere! Even the simple act of getting some ice cream turned into a marathon event. The travel gods were telling us it was time to move on.

Back to the car, top down, and we are off along the coast for our first quick stop at a beach. Trouville su Mer and Danville were recommended to me by a colleague at work who grew up in the area. It is a glorious old seaside resort- think Victorian Brighton – with wide sandy beaches, cafes, and a grand casino. It was a beautiful place to wander along the beach looking out at the channel.

We opted for a quick stop at a hyper market (French for Walmart 😂) to pick up a few things for a picnic style dinner: cheese, bread, olives, meat, cider and wine. A perfect end to the day.

Stats for today:

• Steps: 16,717 or 7.4 miles
• Uphill measure: 18 flights
• Types of cheese consumed: 4
• Layers of sunscreen applied: 3 (and we still have burnt bits😳)

We started our French residency with a much needed long lie. We managed to conquer the combo microwave/toaster (still don’t understand how THAT works!) and have a lovely breakfast with scrambled eggs and various bread products. Frank has my blessing to enjoy the products of the local boulangerie and I will not begrudge him the wonderful fresh baguette while I managed with the palatable GF option from the local market.

We took our time heading out to catch the bus into Rouen. The weather was unsettled: very warm with heavy clouds that threatened rain but the disappeared for long periods before looming again. We arrived in the historic city center just before noon to find that most things were not open. Hmmm. In some instances it was a “not open on Monday” issue. In others, it was “not open until 2” so we had lots of time to wander through the streets of the city. We realised there were more gothic religious buildings than seemed reasonable for a city this size.

After touring large swaths of the old city with the squint buildings and entertaining decor, we had lunch at a cafe in the square outside the Notre Dame de Rouen cathedral – once the tallest building in the world. Frank had a Roquefort croque monsuier and tried his first Normandy cider- both of which were a hit. I had a salad with more meat on it than veg and a lovely chenin. The sun stayed out and dining al fresco was just the thing.

We finished about 2pm so it was time to get some history and culture going. And maybe a little retail therapy. 🙄 (Frank’s idea!) We went inside the vast cathedral with the three different styles of tower which makes it so unusual. The stained glass wasn’t that impressive but we did admire the innumerate saint chapels, including the one for Joan d’Arc. She wasn’t from Rouen but did meet her end here and the city has embraced that fact. Lit the obligatory candle for mom (€3 euro version- I hope she notices 😁) then it was off to see more churches.

Saint-Maclou Church was almost more impressive for its intricate and obnoxiously detailed Gothic design. Much smaller than the Cathedral, it was more my style with the post-war reconstruction using much more attractive stained glass options than in some other places. It was also in a section of the city with an inordinate number of “tippy” buildings which increased the charm.

We spent some time popping in and out of shops to see if there was anything worth bringing back and scored one Tom Petty album (“Let me up I’ve had enough” for the curious) and then opted for a long walk along the Seine. The clouds couldn’t decide what they were doing so we vacillated between scorching sunshine and threatening rain. It was thirsty work so we stopped at a riverside brasserie for some cider, snacks, and people watching.

It was during this sojourn that I extracted a confession from Frank: he was struggling with the lack of planning and structure for this trip. What!?! After all the years of giving me grief over the planning and the details? After all the digs about taking a trip and just living in the moment? And now I plan a trip that does exactly that and I still get grief?! Sheesh. We’ll find a happy medium but there’s a small nugget of validation blooming in my soul right now so I’m going to enjoy it in silence…. Maybe. 😂

We headed back into town for dinner at a brasserie directly across from the Joan d’Arc church and the cross marking where she was burned at the stake. Dinner was excellent: Frank’s sea bass with veg and a curry foam was perfectly cooked and my pistachio sausage (not a typo!) and warm potato salad seemed more German than French but was excellent nonetheless. During the meal the heavens opened and the threatened rain finally arrived. It was a slightly soggy trip home but I deemed the first full French day a success.

Now for the numbers:

• Steps taken: 23,976 or 10.4 miles.
• Calories expended: 788 – far less than those consumed!
• Churches visited: 4 – two inside, 2 outside
• Mistakes made trying to speak French: 1,493 (approximately)

No big announcements or photos in an airport lounge for this one. We’ve been hoping to do a driving tour of Normandy and Brittany for a while – this trip has actually been planned for months. But a whole lot of life stuff kept popping up and it wasn’t clear we were going to actually make it until about 10 days ago. Yay! Let the French Road Trip (FRT) begin!

So we did a marathon drive from Aberdeen to Greenwich to meet some besties from the US. After day of drinking, chatting, and pretending to learn about tea clipper ships, we headed farther south through the Chunnel to Calais. Really should have kept up with the Duolingo French lessons!

Then another couple of hours and we are in our gîte in Canteleu, a village on a hill outside Rouen. The drive itself was magnificent- sunshine through French farmlands with the convertible top down. The roads were quiet – because Sunday – and Frank had plenty of time to adjust to the right-hand drive car on left-hand drive roads. (Really need to pay attention on roundabouts!)

We knew France would be basically closed on a Sunday and our travel weary selves were not ready for the French schedule for dining which is late even at the few tourist restaurants we found open. So a trip to the Carrefours City in Rouen for the basics and we prepared a tasty steak dinner with a lovely Côtes du Rhône (the €4 bottle – none of the cheap stuff!) and ate al fresco. Tres magnifiques!

No data for today – we’ll cue up the geek info for tomorrow. Bonne nuit mes amis!