Category Archives: Germany

Day 34: Racetracks and border crossings

July 25 –

Today may have made up for the last week of rain!  We awoke to beautiful sunshine and a “vigorous” breeze.  So the running shoes came out and I managed about 3.5 miles along some main roads in south Dusseldorf only to return to the hotel and notice a lovely running path running on the opposite side of the building!  Oh well – I love the smell of diesel in the morning!

We filled up on the yummy breakfast buffet and checked out of the hotel, loaded up the car and hit the road.  Our final destination was Luxembourg but we couldn’t go straight there.  There was an obstacle in the way:  the Nürburgring !  It was sorta on the way (not really!) so we had to go see the mecca of racing in Germany!  They were still cleaning up from the Grand Prix last weekend (where Lewis Hamilton failed to earn a podium spot for the first time this season!)  and we missed the start of the German only tour of the facility.  Nevertheless, Frank got some pictures of the track and lots of stuff from the gift shop and then we were off again.

We stopped for lunch in a village just south of “the ring” and did our best to order only in German; we didn’t do too badly!  Everyone got what they thought they ordered even if it wasn’t what they expected!  For example, Frank ordered the currywurst which is what he got but wasn’t quite what he expected.  In this part of Germany at least, it was sausage covered in a sauce that was best described as ketchup with curry in it!

We pressed on after lunch  and drove through some beautiful countryside and then arrived at the border to Luxembourg and what was the first thing we saw…. Pizza Hut!!!!  No border crossing officials but deep dish if you wanted!  A short time later, we found the hotel (thanks Helga!) and unloaded.  Unfortunately, parking is at a serious premium in Luxembourg and our hotel doesn’t have a lot so we have to put the Mercedes in a public garage (secure at least!) next to a strip club!!!

We wandered around the old town section for a while, checked out the shops, got some ice cream and found the cathedral which is  *gorgeous* .  I lit a candle (that’s 5!), we took some pictures and then wandered to the place d’Arms for a seat outside in the glorious sunshine and a local brew.    We wandered back to the hotel to freshen up before meeting my friend Giuseppe for dinner.  We went with him and his partner, Marie-Helene, for dinner in a castle!  We went int the mountains above Luxembourg to the Chateau de Bourglinster for dinner.  It was *very* French – the menu had no other language and neither did the waitstaff!  Giuseppe ordered for us and we had a culinary adventure!  Gillian even tried the caviar and I braved the raw tuna with white chocolate!  It was a lovely meal and I have to brag about my wonderful children who tried everything they were offered joined in even the most boring adult conversations without a single admonition from me!  They obviously had a good upbringing!

/san/

[Pedometer:  15,545 or about 7.5 miles – all up and down hills and along race tracks!]

Day 33: Chocolate and cathedrals in Cologne

July 24 –

We awoke to more teeming rain (no run *again*!) and so took our time getting dressed and enjoying our first European breakfast.  Duncan and Frank love the sausages!  Since we had pretty much seen all there was to see of Dusseldorf in the rain yesterday, we pulled on the rain gear, grabbed the brollies and  hopped in the car.  We programmed Helga (our name for the satnav system!) to take us to Cologne or Koln if you are in Germany.  We couldn’t quite follow all her instructions due to construction but eventually we found our way to the main part of town and into a parking garage.

It turns out we were in the main shopping precinct so it took a little while to locate the cathedral precisely.  You can’t really lose it because the thing is so HUGE!   There are 12 gothic churches in Koln but there was no way the family would put up with visiting all of them so we decided to settle for just the really big one!  It is quite amazing inside and we wandered all over admiring the 13th century bits as well as the parts that have been added in the 800 years since then!  Unfortunately, because it was so dark and rainy, we couldn’t really fully appreciate the stained glass windows but we did our best.  We also saw the sarcophigi of lots of dead archbishops with unpronouncable German names!  One of the most striking things though was what we *didn’t* see:  relatively recent reconstruction from WWII.  According to some photographs we saw in local shops, the cathedral emerged relatively unscathed compared to the rest of Koln.

After soaking in all the gothicness and lighting another candle for my mom (4 countries, 4 cathedrals, 4 candles – the woman should live forever!), we wandered through town to find the Schokolade Museum and factory.  Yes kids, we were off the see Charlie and there was even a glass elevator!  The museum was very well done; it outlined the entire production of chocolate from the growing of the cocoa trees (including a mini-tropical rainforest with live trees) all the way to how chocolate has become such an integral part of our culture.  There was even a mini-theater showing commercials for chocolate in German.  We got to see a miniature production line showing how chocolate bars, hollow molded chocolates and truffles are made.  And of course, there was a gift shop in the museum selling every possible chocolate thing you could image! The main brand that would be recognizable is Lindt which I can get in the Safeway down the street from the house so I wasn’t overly tempted – but we did walk out with a few “samples”!

Of course, while we were in the museum, the sun came out and was now blazing down although large black clouds still threatened.  We decided to wander to a craftshop in the aldstat (old town) where I got the most wonderful wooden moose for my collection!  Since the sun was still out, we wandered back to the cathedral to see if it had brightened up in the sunshine.  On the way in, we realized that we had neglected the belfry and the draw to climb to the highest thing around.  Even Frank ventured as far as the bell in the bell tower (just in time for it to chime the half-hour – what a din!) then the three of us headed to the top of the spire to see an amazing view of Koln and the Rhine.  Duncan actually filled up the memory card in Frank’s camera taking pictures before we headed back down.

I’d like to see what the cathedral area is like on a really nice day because the square outside will forever be known by my family as “The Square of the Incredible Wind” due to the 30+ mph winds blowing across the open platz.  The fountain was blowing water horizontally!  We saw more broken umbrellas today than Chicago gets in a week!

Since Koln is the home of Kolsch beer, similar to how alt bier is a Dusseldorf  product, we felt that we had to sample the local wares before heading back.  We ventured to the Kaufhof Galleria (department store) to eat in their cafeteria which was another adventure.  They had an entire “salad bar” of different cooked vegetables along with lots of other types of food so I was in heaven!  I actually had half a kilo of veggies for my dinner – the first in nearly a week I think!  The food was excellent – and fairly cheap – and we sampled the local brew as well and found it to be satisfactory if much lighter than last nights alt bier.  Back in the car, we told Helga to take us home and now we’ll enjoy the take away bottles that we purchased before leaving Koln….

/san/

[Pedometer: 18,561 or about 9 miles – most of it in gale force winds]

Day 32: The EU…. round two

July 23 –

My watch alarm went off at 4:30 this morning which should be illegal if you aren’t going to work!  We got the kids up and the car loaded and took our leave of the Bargh family and of Scotland.  Luckily Prestwick airport is only 10 minutes from Kate’s house so we had no problem getting there in plenty of time to check in for our 7:15 flight.  We dropped off the rental car (which we completely forgot to fill up first so heaven only knows what *that* will cost!) and were the first in line to check in.  The boy behind the counter, who I swear couldn’t have been more than 14, pointed out that we were way over our weight limit on all our bags but he wasn’t going to charge us since it would cost a fortune (about 5 pounds per excess kilo or about 80 quid in our case!).  We thanked him profusely, went through security and found ourselves ready to board by 5:35!  Unfortunately, Ryan Air wasn’t ready for us to board so we had our last Scottish breakfast (another egg and bacon roll for me!), bought some reading material (the new Harry Potter book!) and waited.

Ryan Air is the Scottish version of Southwest:  cheap but no perks.  They have open seating and even the water on board costs money.  We got seats together (with a spare seat in between no less) and weathered the hour and a half flight just fine.  All the luggage came through okay, the kids and I got new stamps in our passports and we were off.  (Frank is most displeased that as he has an EU passport, he hasn’t gotten a single stamp in it yet….)

We headed out to pick up the rental car and noticed that there was no one manning the Europcar desk.  We wandered around trying to figure out what was up, asking at the information desk and even the Avis desk next door before giving up and phoning the number on our reservation slip.  Which was promptly answered by the man at the Avis desk in front of us since we were supposed to get our car from Avis and not Europecar!  I blame lack of sleep…  After a good laugh was had by all, we got into our brand new Mercedes C class (the one that apparently isn’t available in the US yet), changed the language on the navigation system and headed out.  (And yes, Frank was chucking gleefully the entire way!)

We got to the hotel in Düsseldorf only to find out why it was such a good deal:  it’s a business hotel near many of the industrial and trade sites but no where near the city center!  Undeterred, we wandered off in search of the nearest tram stop to figure out how Düsseldorf public transportation works.   Luckily, there was a trinkhallen (kiosk) at the stop we went to and the unbelievably nice guy working there not only explained how to buy a family day pass from the machine outside,  he ran across the street to a waiting bus to buy one for us when we discovered the machine didn’t work!  (Won’t say anything unkind about the Germans now!)

We got to the Altstadt (old town) and wandered all over looking in shops, admiring cathedrals and having lunch… all in a nice soft German rain.  I believe if I look back over these entries,  I’ll be able to count no more than 2 or 3 days where it hasn’t rained.  I really am beginning to take it personally!  While we did encounter many folks who’s English was far better than my 6 words of German, we felt the pain of not being able to communicate fully so we found a bookstore with an English section and bought a German phrase book.  (And I could have gotten the new Harry Potter book in English for cheaper than I bought it this morning but such is life!)

After we tired of wandering past shoe shops (I counted no fewer than a dozen in one 1/2 mile span!), we headed back to the hotel and got directions to a local German restaurant.  We are definitely not in tourists country because no one in this place spoke English and the new phrasebook got put to good use!  We managed to order two different kids of schnitzel, a pork steak in Hollandaise sauce and a Gyro entirely in German (with a healthy dose of pointing!)  It was absolutely delicious!  A quick stop at the trinkhallen of our new friend for some takeout beer and ice cream and it’s off to a (relatively) early bed.  We are thoroughly enjoying the local alt bier (Schlosser alt) which is brewed here in Düsseldorf.  We just need to make sure we don’t enjoy it *too* much!

/san/

[Pedometer:  24, 515 or just over 12 miles, the majority of which was again done in the rain.]