I’ve decided not to start this post by describing the grey, damp morning (even though it was one). Instead I’ll focus on our plans to head north and see what the west country had in store for us. An overly ambitious plan involved driving to the Snæfellsjökull National Park but that was more than 3 hours each way so we thought we’d head in that direction and see what the day brought.
The sun came out earlier than usual today and we drove north around Hvalfjörður (“whale fjord”) to avoid paying a 1000Kr toll to use the tunnel. Actually, it was suggested that using the tunnel meant you missed some beautiful scenery and that just wouldn’t do. So around we went which meant that when we got to the head of fjord, there was a turnoff for Glymur waterfall – the second highest waterfall in Iceland at 198m. We thought we could drive up, take a few photos, and then be on our way as we had done for most of the other waterfalls we have seen. We pulled into the parking lot where there were about 8 other cars and realized that this was going to involve a hike. Great! Boots on, back pack organized – let’s hike!
The signs said that it was 3.4km to the falls which we thought would be no problem: just over 2 miles at about 20-25 minutes per mile (we hike pretty fast) so we could knock this out in about an hour and a half and be on our way up the coast. And that estimate would have held too if we were hiking along flat ground. Alas, that was not to be the case. The hike wound through fields and over rocky hill to get to the river bed at the base of the falls. But the falls were in a deep crevice of the hill and the only way to actually see them was to climb up to where they were. Yes, up nearly 600 feet! Across the river (walking on stones and a log) and up rock face, we climbed over boulders, clambered through caves, and scrabbled up scree. In several places, the climb was so steep they had planted rebar with rope tied to it to help pull yourself along. Not quite what we had planned but the gauntlet had been thrown and we were going to see that waterfall.
And what a site it was. Around 500 feet up, we found the viewing site which showed not only the magnificence of the falls but the breathtaking views all around us. It was a challenging hike but nothing short of a spectacular experience. And we had timed it perfectly: while we had seen no more than 4-6 people on the ascent, we must have passed two dozen on the way down. In fact, there was a traffic jam at the log to cross the river. When we got back to the parking lot, there had to be 25 cars and more pulled in while we were having an impromptu trunk picnic (we were too hungry to find something more “picturesque”).
Our “quick jaunt” to the waterfall had taken 3 hours so driving another 2 hours to go hiking in the national park was out of the question. So we continued around the fjord to the town of Borgarnes to visit the Settlement Museum to learn about how Iceland was founded. It was a quaint little place with homemade audio guides (using iPod minis!) and entertaining exhibits. A second part of the exhibit showed the highlights of Egil’s Saga which had connections to the region. The dioramas were either entertaining (carved people in longships) or creepy (horses heads on sticks – “scorn poles”). Unfortunately, photography was not allowed so you’ll have to use your imagination.
After this cultural experience (and a cup of tea with GF cake in the cafe!), it was back to town. We ate at the Icelandic Fish and Chip Company, a small cafe-like setting where you can choose one of the three fresh fish of the day from the blackboard. Frank chose the wolf fish (fried of course) and I had the special of the day: mussels! It was delicious and the most reasonably priced meal by far. A quick wander through town and we are off to bed reasonably early as our legs seem to think they have done enough work today.
Data for today:
Drive: 208
Steps: 20,784 (10.3 miles)
Flights: 97 (!)
Languages overheard so far: 6 (English, Icelandic, French, German, Italian, Russian)
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